May 2001

Veg-City Diner
55 W. 14 Street, between 5 & 6 Avenues
Tel. (212) 490-6266
Hours: 6 am to 1 am, 7 days a week
Major credit cards accepted
Wheelchair accessible
Take-out and free delivery

A vegetarian diner—what a great idea! Nestled in a block on Manhattan's busy 14th Street, Veg-City opened in early April just a few doors west from Blimpie's, Subway and Popeye's. Aside from being on the same block, however, they have little else in common.
When's the last time you vegetarians had a Sloppy Joe, Philly Cheesesteak sandwich, or spaghetti with meatballs? How about chicken nuggets? Well, Veg-City Diner offers all of this and more—and it's tasty and entirely meat-free.

The set-up is classic American diner, including roomy booths with vinyl benches, a long counter with swivel stools, and a classic dessert carousel showcasing colorful cakes, pies and cupcakes from the famous Cupcake Café. Thankfully missing is the usual grease and gunk—from the food and the environs.

The fare is basic diner food, with a variety of soups (all vegan, $2.50 for cup; $3.75 bowl), sandwiches, salads, side dishes, traditional milkshakes (and smoothies), and entrees, like meatloaf with mashed potatoes ($7.95) and the "Public School Lunch"—macaroni and cheese with salad ($6.95). But there's also a juice bar, offering carrot, celery, beet and cucumber juices. A "V" on the menu indicates vegan dishes, although people should note that it's not yet consistent and you should ask to make sure—some things, like the mashed potatoes, actually have dairy in them, while other stuff, like non-dairy cheeses, aren't clearly indicated but are available. There are daily specials including a "blue plate" special (usually vegan), some of which are pretty inventive.

Breakfast is served all day, including eggs any style or scrambled tofu with toast and homefries ($3.75), omelettes (from $4.25), pancakes ($3.75), whole grain Belgian waffles ($4.25), and Challah French Toast ($4.75). Freshly baked muffins ($1.95) as well as sides of tofu bacon, soy sausage and scorned beef hash ($2 each) are also available.

There are numerous appetizers that can complement an entrée or a few can serve as a light meal or be shared among friends. The Chicken Mock-Nuggets with honey mustard dipping sauce ($4.25) was a big hit with my omnivorous companions. "Better than the real thing," was the unanimous review. I'd say the same for the vegan Spinach Pie ($4.95), with fluffy phyllo crust, stuffed with spinach and faux-feta cheese. The salads are generous in portion and have fresh ingredients. The attractive Greek Salad ($4.95 small, $7.95 large) is quite filling, with Romaine lettuce, ripe tomatoes, feta cheese (faux can be substituted) and black olives (a little sparse with the 'hand-rolled Grape leaves'—there was just a half of one on the top of mine). The Cobb Salad ($5.95 small, $8.25 large) is an interesting take on the real thing, with Romaine, soy chicken, tofu bacon, egg, avocado and blue cheese.

The Sloppy Joe ($5.25) is similar to what my Mamma used to make, a thin bun smothered with a sweet and slightly tangy sauce—texturized vegetable protein gives it a meaty feel—and garnished with a pickle and slaw. Like the Joe, the FauxPhilly Cheesesteak sandwich ($5.95) is quite sloppy, with piles of grilled un-steak, peppers and onions, covered in melted Provolone cheese, and served on a roll. One friend observed that the Chicken Salad sandwich ($5.25) is rather skimpy and the salad not infused with enough Nayonaise. The Shepherd's Pie ($7.50) is tastefully garlicy, but a little heavy on the lentils and not enough mashed potatoes. My meat-eating companion, however, was exuberantly satisfied with the hearty Garden Burger—a thick grain and veggie patty—presented on a toasted bun with lettuce and tomato ($4.25). His comment was an emphatic thumbs-up.

But, wait—what about the fries? For me, the ultimate test for a great diner is its French fries; and Veg-City passes with flying colors: a generous portion of thickly cut potatoes with a touch of crunchiness, they're served hot and aren't greasy or soggy ($2 side order). Yum! (Their sweet potato fries are tasty too.)

More traditional vegetarian dishes are available: a rice and beans "Fix" with mushroom gravy ($7.95) and a diner-version Grilled Veggie Platter with beans and grain ($8.95).

The restaurant is child-friendly and wheelchair accessible (except for the restrooms). The wait staff are very friendly and knowledgeable, although a tad slow and even forgetful at times. They say that a liquor license is in the works.

Keep in mind that this is diner food we're talking about, not haute cuisine. Veg-City has quickly become a favorite and can satisfy veggies and meat-eaters alike.

This Just In—Veg City just opened another diner in the East Village: 37 3rd Ave. at 9th St.; tel. 212-353-8440. They serve beer and wine.

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