July 2000

Strictly Roots
2058 Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Blvd. (7th Ave.), between 122 & 123 Streets
Tel. (212) 864-8699
Hours: 10 am to 10 pm, Monday through Saturday; closed Sundays
Major credit cards accepted
Not wheelchair accessible
Take-out available

In the spring of last year, I decided I was tired of visiting the same old vegetarian restaurants. I organize the "VegOutings" for the VegOut group and, although we really love our familiar haunts, I thought it was time to look for new places. I went to the trusty Yellow Pages and looked under "Vegetarian" in the cuisine guide at the end of the restaurant listings. I’m glad I did! There was Strictly Roots, an organic, vegan Caribbean restaurant in West Harlem. The listing proclaimed that it "serves nothing that walks, swims, or flies." I thought that was a good opener.

For VegOut—a social group for lesbian, gay, bi and transgender vegetarians—the next step was to call and make sure our group would receive a warm welcome. At our usual downtown hangouts, sexual orientation had never been an issue. After speaking with one of the owners, Daniel Cover, I found the same would be true at Strictly Roots. Last summer, a group of us met for lunch. By the end of the meal we were unanimous in declaring the restaurant a VegOut favorite. Ever since, several of our members have made it a regular stop for great vegetarian food—and I’m one of them!

Just south of bustling 125th Street, the restaurant is situated on a quiet block. The set-up is casual, with seating for about 20 customers at small square tables (easily pushed together for any size group). Low lighting is supplemented by sunlight on bright days, and decoration has been kept to a minimum. A swath of African cloth and a few posters allow one’s attention to focus on the food and the people. At Strictly Roots, you’ll find neighborhood regulars, as well as out-of-town visitors enjoying the fare.

Food is served from behind a counter, cafeteria-style, onto generously sized plates. After hearing a description of each dish, you can order any number of portions, which are $2.00 each. The day I visited, the tempting selections included seitan stew, lima beans, collard greens, steamed mixed vegetables, mixed root mash (potatoes, yams, etc.) and a tofu-vegetable curry. I had a plate with a combination of the first three items (for $6.00) and had enough food to see me through the rest of a busy day.

The seitan stew was the star. The gluten was slightly soft and full of the rich flavor of the gravy. The collards were cooked just right: soft enough to chew, but with plenty of body and flavor, topped with just a little oil to give them a rich taste and texture. The lima beans were big and buttery, also cooked to perfection in a creamy yellow sauce. During past visits, I have sampled the tofu croquettes—crispy on the outside, soft and savory on the inside; the mash—only slightly disappointing due to its relative blandness, and easily remedied with a bit of Bragg’s and pepper; and the childhood-revisited special—macaroni and soy cheese. (Although the mac & cheese is totally yummy, vegans should know that the soy cheese used contains casein. Otherwise, everything at Strictly Roots is strictly vegan.) Salt is used sparingly and there is an abundance of condiments to season your dishes just the way you like.

In addition to the steam table, there are veggie burgers, sandwiches, and Jamaican veggie patties. We tried one of the patties—a delicious turnover—and were delighted with the flaky crust, the perfectly seasoned filling, and the relative greaselessness compared to the meat-filled version. Strictly Roots is also raw foodist-friendly—they will happily prepare a special dish if called in advance.

There is a juice bar, and several healthful cocktails can be made to order to complement your meal. There are also plenty of other hot and cold beverages, all of a natural persuasion. Don’t let your eyes get too big for your stomach, though! You can’t leave Strictly Roots without sampling their pineapple upside-down cake. All I can say is it’s worth saving room for!

Alex Fisher is a co-founder and Coordinator of VegOut, the social group for lesbian, gay, bi and transgender vegetarians and friends. Contact VegOut at 212-802-8655 or E-mail: vegout1@juno.com.

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