April 2000

Quintessence
263 E. 10th St. (between 1st Ave and Ave. A)
Cell phone: (646) 654-1823
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 5 to 11 pm (closed Mondays
Major credit cards accepted
Take-out available
Not wheelchair accessible

The East Village in Manhattan is a great place to dine if you’re into vegetarian-friendly eateries, with the likes of Caravan of Dreams and the Angelica Kitchen. As if it couldn’t get any better, there is now a 100 percent organic, vegan and raw food restaurant. Welcome to Quintessence.

Shortly after they opened last December, a friend handed me their menu. Just one read of it and I wanted to go. The food is described in words that are no stranger to menus but which take on fresh connotations in the context of raw food: ‘heavenly,’ ‘luscious,’ ‘tantalizing,’ ‘vibrant’ and ‘spectacular.’ In addition, nestling among some of the dish descriptions there are assurances such as ‘so good for you,’ ‘packed with powerful antioxidants’ and ‘boosts the body’s healing power.’ Being something of a raw-food enthusiast, how could I resist? With friend in tow, I made for Quintessence.

We were greeted by a particularly small restaurant, with a reassuringly visible kitchen at the back. The decor of cheerful light green and pale wood is clean and natural—in keeping with the food. Hammock-like lengths of linen cover the ceiling to add a touch of coziness. World music fills the air and candles adorn the tables. Even so, this is not exactly the environment for an intimate romantic date; a little too brightly lit and tightly packed for that.

Frequent inter-table greetings indicated that many diners knew each other, but don’t let that put you off if you’re a new-comer. The energy is friendly and intoxicating—a sort of raw food euphoria. Natural and ancient though raw food diets are, a restaurant serving such food is something of a novelty for the time being, so it’s difficult not to be excited about it.

The wait staff at Quintessence are soft-spoken and well-mannered, making a pleasant change from the hurried note-scribbling at so many restaurants. There was a sizable delay between courses, but that added to the leisurely feel and allowed for proper digestion (just don’t eat here if you are in any kind of hurry). It was good to know they were taking their time over the preparation, and the wait seemed to grant unspoken permission for us to linger ourselves, both during the meal and afterwards, as we hung around sipping herb tea (their warm drinks are the only technically non-raw items served). Alcohol isn’t offered, but you are welcome to bring your own. A tid-bit of information from the waiter: wine is raw! And of course it also comes in vegan and organic varieties.

I started with the $6 house salad. It consisted predominantly of greens with a spattering of nutritious sprouts and cherry tomatoes. The addition of pine nuts and sweet, soft onions was a delicious distinguishing feature. The salad was moist from the flavorful dressing, which you’ll love if you’re a balsamic vinegar fan. My friend chose Peter’s Pot—a mixed vegetable soup with a hint of dulse. It was cold and raw, and initially something of a challenge for the senses, but after two sips we were converted. It had a thin consistency but was very satisfying, with a warming spicy kick thanks to the cayenne pepper. Other appetizers to choose from include the Guacamole and Chips, not fried chips but slices of various vegetables that have been dehydrated to a dry, chewy (rather than crisp) texture, concentrating the flavors into a subtle sweetness.

For my main course I was tempted by the description of the Nut Loaf ($12) as being ‘dark, rich, robust and satisfying.’ It more than lived up to the promise, and it was hard to believe it was raw. Neither dry nor soggy like so many of its cooked counterparts, it was bursting with flavor from the buried pieces of sun-dried tomato and marinated mushroom. It was accompanied by a swirl of sweet puree which was like a dessert cream—a perfect accompaniment to the slightly tart savoriness of the loaf. Pasta Italian ($9 to $12 depending on choice of sauce) appealed to my friend, since she wondered how they could pull this one off. Between exclamations of ‘Mmm!’ she commented that it was the only spaghetti she’d ever had that didn’t feel like a dumbbell in her stomach. True, it is not really pasta, but the thin strips of yellow squash give the same effect as a bowl of spaghetti. And you can have just as much fun with it, twirling it onto your fork and sucking in the loose threads. The raw pesto sauce (marinara and alfredo are also available) was surprisingly tasty, with all the recognizable flavors of standard pesto. The other entree that appealed to us was the raw Sun Burger ($9.50) which a neighboring diner assured us tasted just like a regular veggie burger, only better.

We were not so overstuffed that we couldn’t partake of the live dessert delights, feeling guiltless since every choice would be full of enzymes and nutrients. I had Pecan Pie ($5), which was light, fresh, delicious and perfectly sweet—not sickly sweet as the conventional versions so often are. My companion chose the Fruit Bowl ($5) consisting simply of chopped seasonal fruits, coconut flakes and walnuts. Satisfaction came from the freshness and pesticide-free taste of the fruit. Even the coconut flakes are from a specially selected source: the restaurant owner, Dan Hoyt, says that the coconuts you buy in regular stores are old and virtually toxic with saturated fat, unlike the host of nutrients in the young coconuts that Quintessence uses.

Although the prices may seem slightly higher than you might expect for uncooked dishes and an unpretentious environment, once you’ve read the menu section about their standards and tasted the flavors, all is justified. It feels as if you are paying not only for your meal but also supporting a worthwhile cause. More than a restaurant, Quintessence is also a representation of all that is nutritious and environmentally-friendly about eating vegan, organic and raw food.

I like to think of this place as a mini healing retreat. I left feeling wonderfully satisfied and light both in body and mind. Energized even. Let me leave the last words to them: "All in all, we are only interested in bringing you the best because we care. We want to share with you how food can be so tasty and at the same time so good for you. Eating your way to a healthier future and spreading the knowledge is our agenda for the millennium."

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