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Restaurant Review: Organic Grill
By Beth Gould

March 2002

The Organic Grill
123 First Avenue, between 7th Street and St. Marks Place
Tel. (212) 477-7177
Hours: Monday to Thursday, 11 am to 10 pm; Friday, Saturday & Sunday, 10 am to 11 pm
www.theorganicgrill.com
Major credit cards accepted

Have you ever found yourself sitting at home on a Sunday afternoon—inactivity and a little bit of laziness having claimed all your ambitions of chores and domestic accomplishments? The temperature is low enough that you decide to put off starting that exciting new fitness regimen, and you’re getting hungry. At this point, panic starts to set in. Panic because you know that you don’t have enough energy to shop and cook a satisfying meal. You also know that grazing on junk food isn’t going to do it either. You want something wholesome and good for you, but tasty. It also wouldn’t hurt if there were seasoned home fries and a soymilk shake thrown into the equation. The Organic Grill to the rescue! If you live in the East Village, you probably don’t have to change out of your pajamas to visit (the wait staff seems laid-back), but it’s also worth the trip for those of us who live farther away to visit this cozy neighborhood restaurant.

The Organic Grill is the kind of restaurant you wish had been around the corner your whole life. (They even have a frequent diner program!) It’s the sort of place where you would be comfortable meeting friends and talking for hours over tea and coffee, having a meal after a long day, or having a delicious brunch. (more about this later.) Sitting in their brightly colored dining room with festive stained glass lights is very soothing and homey. One of the nice things about the Organic Grill is that all of the menu items are vegan, kosher and certified organic unless noted—-not the other way around (except for a daily fish special).

On a recent trip to the Organic Grill, my dinner companions and I started with their Eggplant Caponata with herb Crostini ($6.25) and Guacamole with Spicy, homemade Tortilla Chips ($8.50). Both were appropriately creamy with complex tastes. I was impressed by the generous portions of the appetizers. The guacamole was delicious, and tasted downright southwest. Usually guacamole in NY is lacking the freshness and zest that you find when it is prepared closer to its natural origin, but this dish had all of those qualities. The only change I would have made to the Caponata is to make the crostini a bit softer.

There are a diverse number of main courses available, including the Grilled Portobello Sandwich ($9.25), BBQ Seitan Plate ($12.50), Tofu Asian Style ($12), and Quesadillas ($10.25), to name just a few. The quality that all these dishes share—with their diverse origins and ingredients—are their creative garnishes and sauces. The tangy homemade vegan mayonnaise on the Portobello Sandwich for instance, really made what would have been an enjoyable sandwich outstanding. The Ginger-Tamari glaze on the Asian style tofu (also available Masala style) had the sharp sweetness of ginger, and set the mood well for the dish. The best value is the Macro Plate Special ($14.00). You get miso soup, brown rice or quinoa, baked, marinated tofu or bean of the day, marinated arame and hijiki salad, blanched greens and vegetables, and a pot of tea. There is so much food served, all well prepared, but you don’t leave feeling weighed down, because the food itself is not heavy.

The Organic Grill offers many organic wines, but also earned high marks at our table for their Milkshakes ($5.50). These are made with Soy Delicious ice cream, and milk (soy, rice or dairy). And then of course there is the ever-changing selection of homemade desserts. I have tried the tarts and the cheesecake, and I wouldn’t pass up seconds of either.

But the real show-stopper at the Organic Grill is their brunch. They offer a brunch menu with bountiful options for both vegans and vegetarians with favorites like Challah French Toast with bananas and walnuts ($8)), vegan Belgian Waffles with maple tofu whip—a delightful alternative to butter, ($8)—and, of course, Pancakes with maple syrup ($8 each with choice of coffee or tea). There are also many variations of ‘traditional’ egg dishes, such as omelets ($8) and Huevos or Tofu Rancheros ($8.50) that the chef will prepare with either grated tofu or eggs. I had the Tofu Scramble and Tempeh Bacon, ($8.50) which is grated, seasoned tofu sautéed with shiitake mushrooms, onions, garlic, scallions, and vegetables. This is served with either vegan or dairy cheese.

One thing worth mentioning is that the Organic Grill offers a menu of more than 30 different varieties of organic coffees and teas; and their coffees are fairly-traded and shade-grown. Coffee is served in an individual French press so you can determine how dark you like your brew.

Going to the Organic Grill makes me realize that vegetarian and vegan eating establishments have improved so much that they can be judged alongside fine restaurants that have no restrictions on food preparation and ingredients. This underscores the fact that those who choose to eliminate animal products from their diets are not ‘food-haters’ as some labels attest, but in fact lovers of good food—organic, healthy, tasty and well-prepared.

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