March, 1998

Kate’s Joint
58 Avenue B Between 4th and 5th Street
Tel.: 212-777-7059
All credit cards accepted
Hours: M-F 11 am to 12 midnight
Sat-Sun 10 am to 1 am

Finally. A mellow, laid-back vegetarian restaurant that serves undeniably hearty food has turned up in—couldn’t you have guessed?—the East Village. Way east. Avenue B and 4th, to be exact.

Upon entering this easily missed little restaurant, one is struck by its homey feel. With couches on the right, and a narrow bar on the left, this immediately feels like someplace to really relax in—assuming you don’t mind the smoke; because, yes, Kate’s is one of the few restaurants left that permit smoking anywhere in the restaurant. The ambiance is casual, not somewhere you’d take people you were trying to impress, but rather somewhere you’d go to unwind with friends. Even meat-eating friends. The food is so good, so comforting, even your carnivorous friends will feel as though they’re back in Mom’s kitchen.

The restaurant clearly caters to an animal rights crowd. On any Saturday night, you might see a half-dozen or more activists refueling after a long, cold day of protests, along with a smattering of post-punk, quasi-anarchist locals. The menu is almost completely vegan, although there some dairy dishes are available; and the staff is friendly, laid-back and well-informed about various dietary requirements. Be warned, however: Kate’s Joint serves extra-large portions, so come prepared to indulge your palate, though not your pocketbook.

The appetizers to start off with include the delicious vegan Caesar salad ($3.75/$5.95), the flavorful Jamaican "Beef" Patties ($2.50), and the crispy batter fried mock popcorn shrimp ($4.25). The specials are always worth a look, and the night I was there, featured an appetizer of alu paratha stuffed with mashed potatoes, sautéed garlic, and collard greens with a yogurt dressing. The dressing was not vegan, but even without it, the appetizer was scrumptious, rich with garlicky flavor.

The main menu features five entrées, as well as pizza, pasta, and various vegetarian sandwiches. The Southern-Fried Chicken Uncutlets with mashed potatoes, vegetables, and "mama’s home style creamy gravy" ($8.95), are delicious and perfectly crispy with an intense flavor. The mashed potatoes are smooth and reminiscent of long-ago Thanksgivings—minus the turkey drippings. The Fake Steak Au Poivre stuffed with portabello mushrooms and au poivre sauce with potatoes and vegetables ($9.95), does not taste like any steak I recall. It has a unique flavor all its own, and certainly beats anything I’ve been able to whip up with tofu in my own kitchen. The Shepherd’s Pie, a mock beef dish sautéed with vegetables and baked with mashed potatoes ($8.95), did not appeal to my tastebuds, but according to my dinner partners, tasted "just as it should." Perhaps that was simply too much like the "real thing"! If you’re lucky enough to be there on a night they are serving the Unturkey Pot Pie, my advice is to order it—it’s among their most popular dishes, with good reason.

In addition to these innovative twists on vegan fare, Kate’s Joint also offers more traditional fare such as pasta and vegan pizzas. For the most bang for your buck, the veggie sandwiches are worth a look. The Southern Fried Cutlet on a bun (simply the entrée dish, but on bread, $6.95) is fantastic, and the Unturkey Club ($6.95) is just about too big to get your jaw around, as per all good club sandwiches. Having had my fill of veggie burgers from my own grill, I passed on their Super Veggie Burger ($5.95), although from the look on the face of the woman at the neighboring table, it certainly beats the frozen kind found at your local health food store.

Kate’s Joint provides a small selection of desserts, as well as numerous side dishes, from French fries to black beans. They also serve a very reasonably priced breakfast featuring tofu scramble, oatmeal and vegan pancakes. All in all, Kate’s Joint is a very welcome addition to the New York City vegetarian restaurant scene. In fact, the highest compliment I can give it is to say that it’s a neighborhood restaurant worth leaving your neighborhood for.

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